[This is the final
post for this blog and will wrap up my trip home. For those of you who have followed more or
less regularly, I hope that I was able to touch on at least some topics in each
post that were interesting and that you were able to learn something as well. For those near Platteville, I have LOTS of
pictures that were not posted, so there is still stuff I can talk about!]
I finished my trip by stopping in 2 southern Mexican
cities: San Cristóbal de las Casas in
the state of Chiapas and Oaxaca in the state of Oaxaca. The original plan was to have about 1.5 days
in San Cristóbal and almost 3 days in Oaxaca, but the delay of the trip from
Guatemala due to the protest reduced my time in San Cristóbal to a single
day. Arrival in Mexico, at least in
major cities, is almost like returning home:
although the language is still Spanish, the roads, the advertisements,
the products/brands available, the traffic, the amenities, etc., are not that
much different than the US. From watching
US media, one might be hesitant to travel to Mexico due to perceived physical
dangers, but I never felt threatened at any time in Mexico or anyplace else in
Central America, and in fact generally felt safer than I might in some
neighborhoods in Chicago or Milwaukee.
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An example of
how advanced Mexico is in comparison with the other Central American countries
(and I’ve not even been aware of this in the US, but perhaps we have something
equivalent) is a text message system for noteworthy buildings and
locations. One simple puts in the number
of the monument, and they will receive a text with a description of the
significance of the particular location. |
Chiapas is the southern-most state in Mexico, bordering on
Guatemala as well as the Mexican states of Tabasco, Veracruz and Oaxaca.
It has the second-largest indigenous
population of any Mexican state and has been the site of sometimes-violent
struggles as the native people tried to remedy the historical mistreatment that
they suffered.
The only evidence I saw
of this unrest was a peaceful encampment in front of the cathedral with protest
banners surrounding the camp.
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Shots of the protest encampment in front of the
cathedral. Some signs are simple party
propaganda and other enumerate very specific grievances and demands. |
San Cristóbal itself was founded in 1528 and has undergone
numerous name changes over the years. It
has had its current name continuously only since 1943 (the “de las Casas” was
added in 1848 in honor of an early Spanish defender of indigenous rights, Bartolomé
de las Casas, who was the first bishop and arrived in San Cristóbal in 1545)
and was the capital of Chiapas until 1892 (when it was moved to the current
site of Tuxtla Gutierrez). San Cristóbal
also has the distinction of being the site of the first normal school in the
Americas. It is situated in a beautiful
mountain valley (about 2200 m above sea level so the climate is very pleasant)
and has about 150,000 residents, but the historical part of the city is quite
compact and walkable. As it typical,
there is a central park or plaza (most frequently called the Zócalo both in San
Critóbal and Oaxaca, a term that is often used for central squares in Mexico)
with a cathedral on one side and current/former government buildings on one or
more of the other sides. There are also
pedestrian-only streets in the vicinity of the Zócalo.
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The Zócalo or
central park in San Cristóbal. The kiosk
in the middle was added in the early 20th century and is a café with seating on
the top. In the evenings, bands also
play from the top with dancing both above and down on the ground. |
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An exterior and
interior view of the cathedral in San Cristóbal. |
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A view down one
of the pedestrian streets in San Cristóbal. |
On the east and west sides of the central area are small
hills with churches perched atop: Cerro
de Guadalupe on the east and Cerro de San Cristóbal on the west. Between these overlooks are the typical
variety of colonial churches, plazas and markets as well as several very
interesting museums. My two favorite museums
were the Museum of Mayan Medicine and the Museum of Amber. The medicine museum not only had depictions
of healing practices and rituals, but also a small garden with native plants
and a description of their medicinal uses.
Chiapas is famous for its amber with jewelry widely available (although
much on the street is actually fake) and the museum not only had examples of
amber from around the world, but also described the mining and finishing
processes.
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Iglesia de
Guadalupe on the hill to the east of city.
It was the first church where I saw neon lights surrounding a picture of
Jesus on the altar. |
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The long stairway
up to the Iglesia de San Cristóbal just west of the city. After the climb, I discovered that the church
is currently closed for restoration, so I had to settle for the view. |
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View generally to
the west from Cerro de Guadalupe (above) and generally to the east from Cerro
de San Cristóbal (below). On the lower
picture, Templo de San Francisco can be seen on the left. |
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Two of the
churches in San Cristóbal. On the left
is the Templo de Santo Domingo surrounded by a market. The façade is very ornate but needs sun and shadows to bring out the
intricate design better. On the right is
the Templo de San Francisco, with a much more colorful, but less ornate
exterior. |
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A couple of
examples of amber from the Museum of Amber, which is housed in the restored
convent of the Iglesia de la Merced. The
bottom photo shows some insects if you look closely. |
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A couple of
photos from the Museum of Mayan Medicine.
The picture on the left illustrates the making of candles. The color of the candle is significant in
terms of its effect on health and well-being.
The right-hand picture is part of a display that is protesting the patenting
of plants and remedies in common use by indigenous people by companies and
universities without any payments or perhaps even acknowledgement of those who
actually made the discovery. |
I really liked San Cristóbal as it had a lot for tourists to
do, but it was not inundated with tourists and didn’t have the feel of a “tourist
town.”
I wish I could have stayed a bit
longer, but I actually made the only reservations for my trip for an overnight
bus from San Cristóbal to Oaxaca.
It was
a nice first-class bus, so quite comfortable, but I can’t really say that I
arrived rested and ready for a full day in Oaxaca.
After arrival, the first job was to find lodging so I could
drop off my pack, but this turned out to not be very efficient:
I walked all the way to the Zócalo tourist
kiosk for information (about 3 km), and ended up staying in a place that was
only about 4 blocks from the bus station where I arrived.
The other shock in Oaxaca was the cost of
things—I was used to $15 being a pretty decent room with hot shower and Wi-Fi,
but I ended up paying about $26 in Oaxaca for a room with shared bath (although
it did have the Wi-Fi).
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The bus from San
Cristóbal to Oaxaca taking a rest/meal break somewhere in Oaxaca. Even though I was in the far south of Mexico,
the landscape was similar to what can be found in the US southwest. By the way, this bus actually had a rest
room, so the stops were not as necessary, but the roads were so curvy that
using the restroom was something of a challenge! |
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The bus station in Oaxaca. This is about as far removed from what is called a bus station in Nicaragua as you could get! |
Oaxaca, or more formally Oaxaca de Juárez (named after
Benito Juárez, a native of the state of Oaxaca), was founded in 1530 and has
about 250,000 residents.
Like San Cristobal, it is also
located in a mountain valley, but not quite so high at about 1500 m.
I had heard nothing but great things about
Oaxaca and had high expectation. In general, I was not disappointed, but San Cristóbal had a more
intimate, a bit less touristy feel to it which I liked.
Like Chiapas, the state of Oaxaca is also heavily indigenous (over 50%) and has many
towns and villages that specialize in some particular craft, such as pottery,
weaving, etc.
Unfortunately, with my limited time, I did not have time to explore any of these outlying villages.
Oaxaca is well equipped
for tourists and has a lot to do and see plus several major festivals.
The major annual cultural festival is called “Guelaguetza”
and takes place in late July, but I happened to be there for the “Guelaguetza Infantil,”
a similar, but scaled-down version for kids.
There were lots of little parades and activities geared for children,
including a band concert by middle-school-aged students. Much of the official festival takes place in a new auditorium/amphitheater located on Cerro del
Fortín at the northwest edge of the central city.
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A couple of photos of the parades with kids dancing and youth/adults
playing band instruments as accompaniment. It appeared that volume was
much more important than tone quality for the music. Some of the kids
were in "simple" traditional dress and some were in costumes
representing animals or characters. |
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A photo of the auditorium for the Guelaguetza festival. It seats over 10,000 and from below almost has the appearance of a UFO landing on the hill. |
Geographically, the city is laid out in the traditional
Spanish grid with a cathedral, government buildings and some businesses
surrounding the central square (again called the Zócalo).
Scattered throughout are parks, plazas,
churches and convents and a wide variety of museums, theaters and other cultural venues.
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The
edge of the Zócalo (on the right) with the Palacio de Gobierno (left) which is now a museum with art
as well as a lot of natural history geared towards kids. |
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The band stand in the Zócalo with a a mariachi band setting up. They have free concerts in the park, just like in Platteville, but these are a bit more formal. This particular band did their version of the Bluegrass classic "Orange Blossom Special!" |
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Another park in Oaxaca located just across the street from
my hotel. It’s called Paseo Juárez El
Llano and is about 1.5 km north of the Zócalo. This park was very actively used by locals and included many food stands. On Saturday I saw a scout troop in uniform having a meeting in the park. |
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A couple of views of the Cathedral in Oaxaca. At the top is the
exterior at night. You can tell from all the balloons that this is one
of the evenings with children's activities. For the inside, I'm showing
the organ instead of the altar, since this was the first large organ
that I'd observed on this trip. This is located at the read of the
church and you need to walk around this area to get to the seating area. |
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The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. There is a large former convent
to the right which has been restored and now houses Centro Cultural
Santo Domingo, a large museum with displays about the general history
and culture of Oaxaca, and especially of the Zapotecs and Mixtecs. It
also has many artifacts from Monte Albán. |
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The garden from the former convent is now the
Ethno-botanical garden, which contains a large collection of plants from
across the state of Oaxaca. It's a great place to go for anyone with an interest in the local flora.
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The Basílica de la Soledad
and the ex-convent to the side. This facade has an extraordinary
amount of carvings. The plaza also has a modern sculpture of a bull and
to give an idea of the proximity of churches, I'm almost standing on the steps of the Templo de San José. |
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The house in which Benito Juárez, the first indigenous president of Mexico, lived for several years in Oaxaca. It is now a museum with personal items from his life displayed. Juárez was a native of Oaxaca state, but lived in Oaxaca city for a time as well. |
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There is really a lot of very beautiful colonial architecture even in more everyday locations. This is a view inside the public library in Oaxaca. |
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More examples of how murals are a very popular art form in Mexico and
Central America. At the top is a portion of a mural in the Palacio de
Gobierno by Arturo García Bustos, a student of the famous artist Frida
Kahlo (whose picture appears on the back of the 500 peso note with her
husband, the muralist Diego Rivera, on the front). This particular part
features Benito Juárez and his wife along with representations from
Oaxacan history. The bottom is a popular mural on a street in Oaxaca
and has a revolutionary theme. |
Oaxaca also has a
professional baseball team (the Guerreros) which happened to have a home game
at a stadium only a few blocks from my hotel, so I got to see a little live
baseball (only about US$3 for a grandstand ticket, and if I’d gone to the
bleachers, only US 80
₵).
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The baseball is very much like US professional ball and I would say is approximately equivalent to AA or AAA minor leagues. They've got a bird mascot named Tato who clowns around between innings, similar to the San Diego chicken. One interesting thing to note is that the umpires are sponsored--they are literally bought and paid for! |
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And if there are Guerreros, there must also be Guerreritas! These young women would appears between innings to dance, assist with contests like sack races and add a little sex appeal. Note that Tato also got into costume and joined the dancing. |
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Oh, and there was also some baseball, for the most part pretty good except for one bone-headed play by the second baseman! Unfortunately the home team lost to the team from Tabasco that night, but it was still a very enjoyable evening. The field is artificial turf and the dimensions are actually a bit bigger than a typical major league park in the outfield. You might also notice the McDonald's sign just past the left field fence. |
About 10 km to the west of Oaxaca on a leveled mountaintop
are the ruins of the pre-Columbian city of Monte Albán, a Zapotec city that is
one of the oldest in Mesoamerica and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Though not Mayan, there are cultural and
architectural similarities with the Mayas such as ball courts and the arrangements
of temples and shrines around a central plaza.
There has been considerable excavation at the site and this work, as
well as reconstruction/stabilization work, continues.
The overall scale was similar to Copán Ruines
in Honduras or Mayapan or Ek Balam in Yucatán, but the hill-top location gave
it a feeling of added vastness.
Many
sculptures showing what appear to be dancing warriors have been found, but the
interpretation of these figures is still open for debate. There are also a
number residences/tombs of apparently wealthy and/or powerful people near the
ruins that have also been excavated.
Like the great Mayan cities, Monte Albán was abandoned before the
arrival of the Spanish and the exact cause of its demise remains a mystery.
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Views across the central plaza from opposite ends. The picture at the top (looking generally south) is taken from the highest point in the center background of the lower picture and the lower picture (looking generally north) is taken from the platform at the left background of the upper picture. |
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Some examples of the carvings at Monte Albán. The bottom are glyphs while on the top are the dancing warriors. There are all actually copies as the originals have been moved to interior locations either in the on-site museum or other museums in Mexico. |
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The large ball court (there are other smaller ones on-site as well). The general layout is similar to the Mayan courts, but the walls appear a bit steeper to me. Another difference is that the losers here were apparently NOT sacrificed to the gods. |
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Some of the on-going work to stabilize the ruins. Note the numbers each stone to identify its correct position. |
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This is just another indication of the relative wealth of Mexico relative to the rest of Central America. In an earlier blog I mentioned how difficult it would be to be disabled in Nicaragua, and that would apply fairly universally throughout my travels. Although Mexico certainly does not meet ADA standards, they are wealthy enough to make some attempt at accessibility. |
Finally, on Sunday, April 22, I took off from Oaxaca at
about 8 am and after plane changes in Mexico City and Atlanta, arrived in Chicago
about 5:30 pm and was home by 10:30 that night.
So far I’ve not felt what I would call culture shock, but I think that instantaneous
communication via email and Skype tend to diminish the effects of extended
travel.
However, even though I’d been
travelling almost exclusively through the mountains and the weather was
relatively cool (at least for the sub-tropics), I had to break out the jackets
and sweatshirts immediately upon arrival at home (though I understand March was hotter here than in Nicaragua).
Upon arriving home inspired by this life-changing
experience, one of my goals for the next year is to develop a travel
course and return to Nicaragua in two years with a group of students. Another major goal is to conscientiously maintain, if not
improve, my Spanish so I won’t lose whatever gains I’ve made to this point.
¡Adiós!
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