Somoto Canyon

First of all, for those of you in Wisconsin or Minnesota or similar places…eat your heart out!  (Of course, this taunt is not applicable to Aussies or temporary Kiwis.)  Floating down a river through a spectacular canyon is a great way to spend a January day, even for someone who is not very fond of the water!

Somoto Canyon (locally Namancambre) is about 35 km to the southwest of Sabana Grande.  A one-half hour bus ride to Somoto is followed by a 15 minute ride to the canyon entrance.  The history of the canyon is rather interesting since it was only “discovered” within the past 10 years by some Czech geology students.  Of course, this is a bit like saying Columbus discovered America as locals have been aware of the canyon for millennia, but had simply never publicized its existence.  Therefore, it is a very new tourist attraction, but one that is already in all the guide books.

A map of the Somoto Canyon.  In general, the area is protected withing 100 m of the river and has trails along the rim as well as wter-level tours.  We traveled from the lower left to upper right on the map.

Geographically, the canyon is at the source of the Río Coco, the longest river in Central America.  Even though the canyon is less than 70 km from the Pacific as the crow flies, we are east of the divide, so the Rio Coco flows 750 km to the east, discharging into the Caribbean.  It is formed by the confluence of two other rivers, the Río Tapacalí which flows from the mountains of Honduras (Honduras is only a few kilometers from the canyon entrance and one can see the customs/immigration station at the frontier on the way in.) and the Río Comalí which originates in the mountains around Somoto.

A view of the source of the Rio Coco as we hiked in.  The Río Tapacalí comes in from the left behind the large rock in the center.  The Río Comalíis seen bending to the right.  The hilltops to the left are in Honduras.

Our tour experience actually started in Somoto, where we were met by Henry (his first name is Henry and his second name is Enrique—a bit redundant?) Soriano, a genial, gregarious tour organizer trying to drum up business at the bus station.  He also is the tallest Nicaraguan I’ve met at around 6’2”.  To make a long story short, he talked us into a deal at C$200 a head (a bit under $10) which included 2 guides for 4 hours, life jackets and water shoes.  We hopped on the bus toward El Espino, giving the driver instructions to stop at Henry’s and we were dropped almost at the front door.  The Sorianos are a family upon whom fate smiled as their house is directly on the Pan-Am Highway and at the entrance to the canyon, a perfect set-up for a family business.  There are 11 children in the family and Henry and his two oldest brothers seem to operate the tours.   

After changing and leaving everything that we didn’t want wet (except for lunches, cameras, etc., which were loaded into waterproof containers), we set off down the highway for a km or so before turning off into the fields.  We passed through gates and dodged cow pies on the way down as it turns out that Henry’s tour is a bit different that the standard.  The usual tour is an in-out experience starting at the downstream end, going into the canyon a while, then turning back.  Our tour entered the canyon at the upstream end and exited at the other, going with the current the entire way.   

A view looking down to the canyon entrance as we hiked in.

A bit closer to the entrance, but note the level at which the vegetation begins.  Last October, the water was at that level (I would estimate about 15-20 m above the current water level.  It was also at a similar level for Hurricane Mitch. 

For the first few hundred meters, we waded, but soon had to take the plunge.  For all who know me, you know that submersion is not my favorite thing, but the weather and water were both reasonably warm, so it was not such an ordeal.  For the next 3 hours or so, we alternately walked, waded, floated or swam through a 3-km-long canyon that is like a deep, narrow knife gash in the rock.  At places, it is only about 10 m wide at the top with a depth of 100 m.  It is not Royal Gorge or Grand Canyon in scale, but it is quite spectacular to float along and look up to see sheer canyon walls and a slit of blue sky above.  There were also several spots for cliff-diving for those so inclined (it should come as no surprise that I was not).  We pulled up on a gravel peninsula for lunch, just as the sun was reaching that spot.  Although the water and air temperature were both pleasant, there was a typically steady breeze which cooled one quickly, so the sun was quite welcome.   

At the entrance of the canyon with my new sunglasses (thanks to having excess $ in the flexible spending account last year!).

A wading portion of the canyon looking upstream.  I have not photos in the swimming portions since the camera was sealed away.  I would recommend a waterproof camera for anyone taking this trip.

Downstream view from about the same spot as the previous photo.  This section requires swimming.  With the reflections and shadows, it's difficult to determine exactly where the water is.

A typical view looking straight up.

Some fool (my commentary;  everyone who jumped seemed to have a great time) jumping off one of the cliffs.  I would estimate the height at 12-15 m.

Lunch in the canyon.

After lunch, there were only about 3 more pools where swimming was required, and “miraculously” as we climbed over a rock, there was a boat and oarsman waiting to ferry us to the end.  All in all, it was a very enjoyable day and well worth the effort for anyone coming to northern Nicaragua.  For me, the only negative was that I had to wear my tennis shoes for the hike in (due to the plantar fasciitis orthotic) and my shoes happened to be in a leaky “waterproof” bag—certainly nothing that dampened my enthusiasm (please excuse the pun).

In the boat heading for the exit.  Note the lookout point on the rock straight ahead.  William was also here 3 years ago and his pictures show that the landslide to the left and below the lookout is considerably larger today than it was then.